1973 Volkswagen Beetle Convertible for sale 101134403
1973 Volkswagen Beetle Convertible
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1973 Volkswagen Beetle Convertible

Convertible Car for sale in Burnsville, Minnesota 55306


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Burnsville, MN 55306

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Classic Car Overview

PROJECT CAR (in pieces) – Ready for your creative touch!

1973 VW convertible
vin # 1532910966
Purchased 5 years ago for $2800
It ran and drove okay. It had had relatively new floor pans installed. It was an impulse buy. I’d owned a couple as a kid and thought it might be a fun hobby…
It leaked oil so I started right in and rebuilt the engine. That is essentially complete. New cylinders/pistons/bearings/valves/machined heads/turned crank/painted/new distributor and carburetor  (still have old if you’d rather rebuild those)/added a powder-coated heater flap set/oil filter by-pass kit/coil/wires/plugs…  I have oil pressure and temp. gauges (senders installed) as I figured that’d be nice to have on an old vw…
So…  How do you put a value on that? I don’t know. Obviously, I can’t “guarantee it but I believe it will run. I’m far from an “experienced” mechanic but I rebuilt one other engine in my life and it did…  Since then I’ve R & R’d engines, done heads etc. and learned along the way…

A couple years later, on another impulse, I bought a rebuilt stock transmission online. It cost $1000 give or take.

I have new Sachs clutch/plate/throw-out bearing $200 (?)

At that point I have what (?) - $4800 into it? I never saved receipts. I was doing this for me and didn’t really want to know (or have my wife realize) what I was spending… I’ve looked back in my check registers and online for prices of parts that I have, so all prices listed here are conservative estimates from looking at those sources.

I started deconstructing the whole car when I realized some of the rust was more extensive than I’d hoped. Eventually, my “plan” became to make the body solid again, (i.e., learn how to weld and do basic stuff), replace the interior, update all the mechanical, but keep the body essentially, “original.” I was just going to coat it with clear POR-15 or something and save the “patina.” I know, it might not be the taste of many people but it sounded kind of cool to me to go tooling down the road in such a car with an 8-track blaring the Guess Who or something… and it would have saved me the time/effort/$$ of minting out the exterior. I have new heater channels (and convertible braces) ($500) and when I took the doors off I bought those body braces to hold it together if I ever got around to removing old channels ($115). $5415 spent…

As you can tell from pictures there is body work to be done. – Mostly in wheel well areas and along heater channels. Most (all?) the replacement panels are available online. Most notably it needs the spare tire well and front apron that I’ve already partially removed. There are no major dents in anything other than a fender or two – which are all original and reusable. (The only real annoying spot is on the edge of RR fender you can make out in pic.) But, doors, hood, engine lid, etc. are all good.

The chassis is in good shape. The floor pans had been replaced a few years before I bought it. They are still solid. I had planned on cleaning it up and painting… I have shift linkage bushing kit, new shift knob, heater control cables, hand brake boot, transmission mounts, accelerator cable, Hella horn, steering damper, rebuilt foot pedal assembly, floor pan seal, engine compartment tar boards, set of stainless brake lines,  ($320).


The convertible top had also been replaced a few years prior (white vinyl) but they had let it sit in a garage and the liner was destroyed and a couple of holes chewed in it by squirrels. In keeping with my “original patina” idea, I bought a couple of white canvas iron-on patches (that I was going to have my wife reinforce with stitching…  I figured it was just going to be a Sunday driver for nice weather so… --- I also have on hand new rubber trim and plastic “chrome” bead to reinstall rear window in the top. ($120)

Wheels…  I have a front disc brake set ($300), Rear brake cylinders, shoes, parts ($150), rebuilt the ½ axles/cv joints ($183), wheel bearings ($100), master cylinder & pressure switches($125), rebuilt front struts with new springs and inserts etc. from Topline ($250), Rear shocks (Sachs) ($70), total: ($1298).

Body & Misc…  Like I said, doors and lids are solid, fenders are okay, bumpers are useable but bent and rust pitted. The work is needed in spare well area and wheel wells… I have rear seat well carpet set (empi #00.3998.0 $75), a universal wiring harness (though the old one is still on the body and there was no apparent problem with it) – ($180), engine compartment rubber seal ($10), Two interior plastic panels for rear fender area (because I wanted to change from white to black0 ($115), roll of fender beading ($13), chrome trim attachment clips ($10), Some “Bug Me” videos ($100),  a manual ($18), and other misc. gaskets, seals, grommets, bearings etc. etc. and I’ve no doubt forgotten a few items… ($321 total)

So…. I come up with $7434.00 invested. (not including the miscellaneous, the machine shop costs, the forgotten or the blood/sweat and tears… 

You will want need tires, seat upholstery, running boards, carpet, maybe interior door panels and sun visors etc. – and then whatever you might want to do to exterior to mint it out (if that’s your goal). Otherwise, it’s all here. The end product is up to you!  I know I can’t expect to recover my losses but please, let’s be reasonable with the offers?  all will be considered. Thanks.

Email me (and provide an email address) and I will forward a set of photos via google-drive of car and parts…. Can be seen in Burnsville by appointment. text at: 612-616-3829



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Vehicle Specifications

  • VIN
  • Classic Car ID
  • Stock Number
  • Category
    Import Classics
  • Body Style
  • New/Used
  • Condition
    PROJECT CAR - In pieces. Finish how YOU want it!
  • Mileage
  • Engine
    4 Cylinder
  • Drivetrain
  • Transmission
    4 Speed Manual
  • Exterior Color
  • Custom Color
    your choice

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